Original Article can be Found at: http://www.theguardian.com/san-francisco-travel/san-francisco-jewel-of-the-west

Perched on a peninsula with the Pacific on one side and a bay on the other, San Francisco is one of the world's most beautiful cities – and one of the liveliest.

San Francisco is a perfect city. Nestled between the Pacific to the west and San Francisco Bay curving around to the east, it squeezes stunning hilltop vistas, green spaces, beaches, nightlife, restaurants and cultural events into an unbelievable 18 sq km (7 sq miles). Then there's the sky, the sea, the bright clear light … There's no need for a car here: walking will keep you fit, cycling even fitter and, if your legs get tired, you can make use of the excellent public transport system, by hopping on a cable car, or a streetcar. There's very little traffic; nothing like New York or LA, so even the 13-mile (21km) ride in from San Francisco International airport is a breeze.

John Steinbeck described the city as a "golden handcuff with the key thrown away". Residents celebrate this fact; visitors envy their entrapment. The lure is possibly the weather, but also the city's general buoyant mood. People smile a lot here, and positivity reigns, in its laid-back attitude, leanings towards spiritualism, and acceptance of all things alternative, set in place by the gay rights movement and the 1967 Summer of Love.

People at Alamo Square downtown with Painted Ladies 

Presidio Park, one of the city’s many green spaces. Photograph: Thomas Winz/Getty Images/Lonely Planet Images

There is a lot of sun to be found in the city, though you might have to search for it, as the topography creates a variety of microclimates. If you don't find it in the west, which is comparatively flat and prone to the fog that rolls in from the ocean over Richmond and Sunset, you will in the Mission, the Castro, Noe Valley and North Beach, which are protected by the hills. Fisherman's Wharf to the north and the Financial District in the east are often windy. Wear layers and a good pair of walking shoes, and you too will be smiling.

San Francisco's "happy city" status might also be due to its ample green space: public parks range from the Golden Gate to Dolores to Presidio, and there's lots of public art – look out for the famous annual exhibition of heart sculptures. Or perhaps it's the distinct personality of all the different neighbourhoods.

Transamerica Pyramid from North Beach. Photograph: Patrick Batchelder/Alamy

Go to North Beach for leisurely coffee and the phallic Coit Tower; Russian Hill for Lombard Street – the world's most crooked (and most photographed) road; SoMa (south of Market Street) has got a lot of culture; and Haight Ashbury, once the home of the Summer of Love, is now more high-end than hippy. The waterfront area has been revitalised: stroll down the Embarcadero, a graceful, tree-lined boulevard that stretches from China Basin and the AT&T San Francisco Giants baseball stadium in the south all the way up to Fisherman's Wharf. Also worth a look is the Exploratorium, the city's exemplary science museum, where you can blow the world's biggest soap bubble. 

Lombard street - the world's most crooked (and most photographed) stretch of road. Photograph: Glowimages/Getty Images/Glowimages

A lot of the city's magic is encapsulated in its Golden Gate Bridge, which glimmers in the evening light. At night, the Bay Bridge comes alive like a million tiny stars, its LED lights keeping San Francisco alight. 

To explore the best that San Francisco has to offer, click here to see our special top 10 guide to the city, or plan your trip at sanfrancisco.travel.